🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.